The sinuous road that leads inland from the Italian casino resort of San Remo passes through fifteen minutes of ancient terraced olive trees and vine before arriving at the equally medieval village of Ceriana.
It is here that we find a fascinating living museum of concentric stacked stone houses, covered passageways and archways that, to this day, struggle amiably to resist the passage of time. And it is here also, on the third Saturday and Sunday of every August, that yet another tactile aspect of the town’s rich history is honoured and enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.
Delectable Secret Italian Sausage
The image of a sausage may not be the first thing that comes to mind when secret time honoured recipes are mentioned in the same breath as Italian cuisine. But Ceriana’s Sagra Della Salsicca has become a two day showcase of what truly is a complex, delicious and much overlooked dish. Italy’s pasta and pizza, its seafood and pastries are legend but rarely is the word for ‘sausage’ hastily learnt by travellers setting to embark to this land of flavour.
A Taste of History – Medieval Cuisine
Ceriana is a village divided into four distinct confraternities. These ancient brotherhoods are meticulously preserved to continue the town’s fascinating musical history but during the festival they perpetuate another time honoured tradition. Cooks representing each vie for the public’s preference to their particular culinary offering: four distinct flavours; two charbroiled and two with special accompanying sauce. Just one example, the popular Salsiccia al vino rosso, conjures the attention to flavour that is so keenly contested here year after year: succulent strips of sausage are cooked in select red wine along with local olives and cloves of unpeeled garlic.
The sausage itself is produced by the three butchers’ of Ceriana according to ancient recipes that have been passed through the generations; an intriguing mix of pork, pepper, spices and other jealously kept secret ingredients. And so a very unique eating experience is to be had, the town’s serpentine alleyways and staircases lead to a setting where the recipes recreated are as old as the walls that surround those lucky enough to enjoy them.
Rural Warmth and Hospitality
The days of the festival are a buzz of activity. Visitors from far and near pour into the little town and eagerly wait as long tables are set up in the town’s piazzas and the smell of grilled spice, once again, swells the warm summer breeze. Obligatory local wines are plentifully at hand to complement the sausage and add to the festive mood that only seems to intensify as the night progresses. Accents and dialects mingle into one and become a true testament to the openness and genuine pride this town and its people have for their traditions and hospitality.
The main piazza and heart of the festival sits at the foot of a magnificent 17th century church, its twin steeples dwarfing the revelry below. Here a stage is set up to add music and dance to the already vibrant atmosphere. Feasting begins early and goes on well into the long evening, a steady bustle of revelers traipse the short cobbled distance between piazzas sampling the various recipes at hand… and for these few days at least history can, in every sense of the word, be savoured.
The Sagra della Salsicca (Festival of the Sausage) takes place in Ceriana (IM) on the third Saturday and Sunday of every August. Tickets cost 6 euros and offer a choice of four different and distinct sausage flavours. Those seeking accommodation in Ceriana during the festival are advised to book well in advance. Many self catering apartments are available for extended stays and a room rental service operates in the town. Further details, although in Italian, are available through the local Council website.
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