A look at the delights of the historic towns of Javea and Denia, and the villages of the Jalon and Orba Valleys.
If your image of the Costa Blanca is all concrete towers and mass tourism at its worst, think again. The southern end of the Costa, around Benidorm, certainly does send shudders down the spine of anyone who seeks the real Spain, but keep driving and heading north, and within 90 mins from Alicante you enter a very different scene. The landscape changes from brown and arid to green and mountainous; high-rise concrete hotels give way to smart villas, and you find yourself in lush valleys of oranges, almonds and lemon groves. There are few places in the world where the northern part of a small coastline contrasts more with the south.
In the northern Costa Blanca you find quaint Spanish villages and life goes on the way it has for decades, with siestas religiously adhered to, and local customs and culture still very much a part of everyday life.
This part of Spain is undoubtedly one of the wealthiest in the country. Tourism earns considerable returns for the locals and property prices reflect the number of well-heeled northern Europeans who buy a second home in this tempting area. The weather has a lot to do with this. In the region's main town, Denia, the sun is said to shine 320 days a year.
Denia
Denia's skyline is dominated by the 18th-century Castillo de Denia. Not only does a trip to this honey-coloured fortress give you an insight into the region's long history, the building's grandness offers an excellent opportunity to get your bearings. Twenty miles of Blue Flag beaches extend from Denia to the north; head south and the rocky coves provide excellent scuba sites.
Denia has the feel of being a real working town. With its pavement cafes, smart shops and bustling indoor market it feels like a small version of Nice. There's just so much life about the place. Maybe that's why the town celebrates more fiestas than any other in Spain - quite an achievement. The biggest is the Hogueras de San Juan (22-24 June). Similar to the Fallas Festival in Valencia, it features hundreds of huge papier måché sculptures, representing anything from politicians and celebrities to hot issues of the moment. These are set up in the main streets and squares, only to be set alight in spectacular bonfires on June 24 to celebrate the arrival of summer. The carnival lasts through the night and, although there is no rowdy behaviour or drunkenness, the party atmosphere is positively electric.
During July the town celebrates Santissima a Sangre, which celebrates the town's patron saint and the blood shed by Jesus Christ. Events include infamous Toros a la Mar bull running around the seafront, in which young men run in front of the bulls before throwing themselves into the sea. The following month, on August 14-16, sees the Moors and Christians Fiesta. This Moorish 'invasion' is re-enacted every year with the accompanying canon- and musket-fire and the following day the Christians stage an attack and retake their castle with even more enthusiasm.
Jávea
Well worth a visit is neighbouring Jávea, a portside town of 20,000 .Wander the narrow streets with old houses built from Tosca sandstone. They cluster around the 15th-century Gothic fortress church of San Bartolome. No high-rise buildings are allowed in Jávea which explains its attractive landscape.
Pueblo, the old village of Jávea, has made few concessions to tourism. Whitewashed houses surround the bay, and it's a great place to just sit in one of the outdoor cafes watching the fishermen bring in their fresh catches.
Among the delights of this area are the scenic Orba and Jalón valleys - a pleasure for walking or touring by car.
Orba Valley
Running inland from Denia, the Orba Valley is home to the Girona river and charming, atmospheric little villages such as Tormos, Rafol, Benidoleig, Sagra and Pedreguer. These five villages are collectively known as the 'Rectoría'. In these villages old men sit in the street playing dominoes; women are conspicuously absent - apart from the industrious ones hanging out their washing on their balconies and spying on the menfolk below. It’s utterly timeless and very charming.
Jalón Valley
In the Jalón Valley, just to the south, the Gorgos river running through it is a striking feature and the road follows its twists and turns for several miles. The most attractive villages here are Llíber, Alcalalí, Parcent and Gata de Gorgos. Each has its own distinct character and its own unique specialist produce drawn from the surrounding countryside - wine from the vines, baskets from the reeds or honey from the orange blossom.
An excellent base for enjoying the wonderful mountains in this area is Casa de las Montanas in Parcent. This self catering villa, looking onto the mountain Coll de Rates, has its own pool and hot tub, sleeps upto eight, and has and 5 star amenities. Don’t miss a meal in Parcent Co-Op - a place full of local workers enjoying a three-course meal with beer for €12 – yes, that’s the real Spain all right.
Further tourist information on the region.
