Poble Sec, Barcelona
The Restaurants, Bars and Hotels of an Underrated Neighborhood
Despite its excellent eateries, nightlife and central location, the neighborhood of Poble Sec is off the radar for most Barcelona visitors - for now, anyway.
Barcelona’s sundry neighborhoods – the medieval Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), trendy Born district, posh Eixample – are pretty well-defined. So how the inconspicuous ’hood of Poble Sec, located between boho-chic Raval and leafy Montjuic near the city’s southern end, manages to remain, well, indefinable is a rare and welcome mystery. In guidebooks, Poble Sec, whose name means “dry village," is usually lumped in with the gardens, museums and Olympic constructions of Montjuic – if it’s even mentioned at all. But with low-key hotels and apartments available to rent, Poble Sec is a wonderful place to stay in the Catalan capital. Expect an ethnically diverse, working-class community, quiet streets, real local flavor and a slew of unexpectedly superb dining and nightlife options.
- The delicious conejo con ajo (rabbit with garlic – lots of it), among other traditional Catalan fare, is the No. 1 reason to dine at the rustic Taverna Can Margarit (21 Carrer de la Concórdia; 441 67 23). Free vino runs a close second: The large casks by the cavernous entrance welcome waiting guests to a free tipple.
- Quimet i Quimet (25 C/Poeta Cabanyes; 442 31 42), a tiny stand-up tapas bar, is no longer a secret among Barcelona’s foodies, but its floor-to-ceiling wine selection and innovative montadito tapas, called so because ingredients (like goat cheese and smoked salmon) are mounted atop crusty bread, are still worth a detour. Preserved seafood – as in canned – is the specialty here, and it tastes so much better than it sounds.
- Popular with the city’s Italian residents, La Bella Napoli (14 C/Margarit; 442 50 56) offers an excellent Neopolitan dining experience, with thin-crust pizzas, pastas and boisterous young waiters who may very well kiss you before you leave. There’s nearly always a wait, so a reservation is a good idea.
- Although technically located in neighboring Sant Antoni, just across the “border” of Avenida Paral·lel, Inopia’s ( C/Tamarit 104;424 52 31) down-to-earth, convivial and oh-so-local vibe is Poble Sec in spirit. And that’s despite the relationship the owner, Albert Adrià, has to El Bulli, the Costa Brava restaurant widely considered to be among the best in the world – he is the head chef’s younger brother and the famous restaurant’s pastry chef. It’s serious foodie pedigree, and this neighborhood tapas joint doesn’t disappoint.
- At La Tomaquera (58 C/Margarit; no phone), the lines are long with locals, the lighting is too bright, and the waiters are usually gruff – but the grilled meats (try the entrecot steak) and garlicky caracoles (snails) are out of this world. Follow them up by heading across the street to brick-walled Cerveceria Jazz (C/Margarit 43; 443 32 59) for a generous selection of imported beer in relaxed surrounds.
- A dance hall dating from the 1940s, Sala Apolo (113 C/Nou de la Rambla; 441 40 01) is a livelier nightlife option, with an eclectic calendar of concerts and club nights of funk, hip-hop, Latin and techno.
- The design-conscious B-Hotel (Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 389-391; 552 95 00) puts a hip, minimalist spin on three-star lodging, and its sun terrace has a pool with Montjuic views; doubles from €95 per night. Hotel Silken Concordia (Avenida Paral·lel 115; T.+34 933 249 180) likewise enjoys a great location on Placa d’Espanya, with spacious rooms and summer rates as low as €64.
