Bologna is One of Italy's Gastronomic Capitals

Tortellini, Pappardelle, Lasagna, Bolognese Sauce Invented Here

Jul 20, 2009 Margaret Johnson

A nineteenth century food writer once said of Bologna's cuisine: "When you hear mention made of Bolognese cooking, drop a little curtsy, for it deserves it!

Often called Bologna la grassa, "Bologna the fat," this epithet is used in the most flattering way to honor the foods of this gastronomic capital of Emilia-Romagna-the home of tagliatelle, tortellini, pappardelle, lasagna, and the birthplace of the meat ragu known as Bolognese sauce.

Bologna La Grassa

Whether the intention is to sightsee, take in an opera, or just wander around the city under its miles of porticos, there are plenty of inviting trattoria, osteria, pizzeria, salumeria, pasticceria, and panificio that contribute to its reputation.

Sampling cucina tipica Bolognese (typical regional food) can actually amount to a full-time job, starting with some of the pastas said to have originated in Bologna-tagliatelle (supposedly created to emulate Lucretia Borgia's golden hair); tortellini (little rings of dough stuffed with chopped meats and served in consommé); cappelletti ("little hats" stuffed with ricotta cheese and minced chicken); and lasagna (wide noodles baked with ragu Bolognese).

Piazza Maggiore: Heart of Bologna

Begin a visit at historic Piazza Maggiore, filled with picturesque monuments and palaces. Bologna's Tourist Information office is also on the Piazza. The 16th century Fountain of Neptune is one of the most popular sites, as is the Basilica of St. Petronious, the largest church in the city, or D'Accursio Palace, Bologna's town hall. The Banchi Palace dates to the second half of the 16th century, and its scenic façade was built to hide the narrow streets of the medieval market lying behind.

But that's where the fun begins, especially on a Saturday afternoon when the markets are bulging with shoppers hunting down perfect meats, cheeses, pastas, and wine. Some of the most well-known food shops in the city are located here in a labyrinth of streets with names like Via Orefici, Caprarie, Ranocchi, and Pescherie, originally named in accordance with the activity of the artisans and sellers who used to work here.

Via Pescherie Vecchi, with both indoor and outdoor stalls, is named for the fish sellers who trade here; Vicolo Ranocchi is so-called because frogs, once plentiful in this vicinity, were a traditional Bolognese specialty. Toruing Mercato di Mezzo or Mercato delle Erbe, a covered vegetable and fruit market, invites an afternoon amble for visitors, even if only for window-shopping and wishful thinking.

Home Food Association

Another exciting way to capture the essence of Bologna's obsession with food is to book a meal through Home Food Association. This cultural group, technically called Association for the Protection of the Typical Gastronomic and Culinary Heritage of Italy offers visitors a unique opportunity to taste traditional foods cooked by a "Cesarine," the title given to the cooks and hostesses who open their home to strangers for the sole purpose of sharing their family recipes and passion for cooking.

Bologna La Turrita

Begin a tour of Bologna la turrita at Le Due Torri, the city's only remaining twelfth century twin towers. From Piazza Maggiore, the towers-also known as Asinelli and Garisenda for the two families who originally built them-stand slightly off balance at Piazza di Porto Ravegnana. The Bolognese were somewhat obsessed with tower-building in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and noble families built them as living quarters and as protection from one another.

From the top of Asinelli (500 steps to the top), visitors can see the towering Santuario di San Luca, the guardian angel of the city that rises almost 1,000 feet above it on the Colle della Guardia, one of the first foothills of the Apennines.

Housing the icon of the Blessed Virgin Mary of St. Luke, a visit to the eleventh century church requires a short bus ride (bus #20 to Villa Spada) and then a hike under the 666 arches that run from Saragozza Gateway to the shrine. Said to be one of the longest arcades in the world (nearly 4 kilometers long), the Bolognesi built the porticoed sidewalk over a period of 65 years from 1674.

If one believes John Grisham, who set much of his 2005 novel The Broker in Bologna, wealthy merchants, artisans, and noble families financed the arch-building project and hung plaques opposite them to be remembered. Grisham also reminds readers that there is a Cosepuri Minibus that transports pilgrims to/from the sanctuary without benefit of the climb.

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Bologna's Streets are Lined with Columned Porticos