Besen-Style Eating in Germany
Swabian food, sausages, maultaschen and good wine in comfortable southern German inns
Dec 4, 2006
Eating out in Germany doesn’t always mean a Bratwurst at a sausage stand. In fact, my mouth waters just thinking of a visit to a Besen in southern Germany: homey food, a cosy atmosphere and a full stomach.
What’s a Besen?
The origin of these small restaurants is a lovely story. Usually found in vineyard areas like south-west Germany, they were run by families who had some time to spare in between different phases of the grape-growing and wine-producing seasons. They would take a room of their house, clear out all the normal furniture, sweep out the room, add some tables and chairs for eating and then hang their broom up outside so that passers-by would realize their besen was open for business. Then, they’d cook for the visitors delicious homestyle meals, served, of course, with some of their own wines. In German, the word Besen means broom, so that’s where it all comes from.
Besen Culture Today
In 21st century Germany, Besens can vary between something very similar to the old traditional room of a family house to large purpose-built restaurants for up to 50. What hasn’t changed is that Besens usually have seasonal opening times (one might close for two weeks, open for another two, close for three weeks, and so on), and they still serve traditional food and local wines. Typical food includes Maultaschen (sometimes described as Swabian ravioli – they’re filled with a mix of mince, spinach and onions), Zwiebelrostbraten (an onion roast) and side dishes of Spätzle (best explained as a kind of pasta, very common in southern Germany). And the wine is delicious!
Visiting a Besen
The most authentic Besens you can eat at tend to be in the countryside, a little way out of the main cities. Head to southern countryside cities like Heilbronn and if you’re driving, you can even just hit the local tracks and hunt. The better method is to find a Besen calendar – usually published in local newspapers and increasingly on the Internet, sometimes even in English. This helps a lot because even large established Besens have long periods when they’re closed. They’re a great value, great way to enjoy a piece of southern German culture – just don’t eat there too often or you’ll find your weight definitely on the increase!
