A Bluffer's guide to Dublin
A Tour of Pubs, Shops, Restaurants and Sights in Ireland's Capital
DESPITE its strong worldwide reputation as a destination, Dublin can be a difficult beast for outsiders to get a handle on.
Of course, everyone knows about the city’s legendary air of Guinness-fuelled bonhomie. And only the most unrepentant of ignoramuses would fail to acknowledge a febrile culture of literary and musical innovation that has spawned some of the most questing creative minds of the past few hundred years. Nevertheless, much like the frequently complex musings of the city’s most famous son, James Joyce, Ireland’s capital offers much more in the way of slow-burn sensations than instant hits.
Yet, while Dublin can’t call upon a checklist of easily identifiable tourist show-stoppers, its inherent charisma makes the absence of obvious attractions seem as inconsequential as a short squall of rain drifting in up the River Liffey.
The main areas of interest for visitors are congregated south of the Liffey.
It’s here that you will find the swanky shops of Grafton Street, the Georgian architectural treasure troves of Merrion Square and St Stephens Green, beautiful Trinity College, and Dublin Castle. Another must see in this neck of the woods is the Guinness Storehouse at St James’s Gate where the process of producing the dark stuff is explained in thirst-inducing detail.
Things are undoubtedly a little more earthy to the north of the Liffey and the chain stores and succession of fast food joints on O’Connell Street, the city’s main drag, give it a slightly down at heel feel. There’s still plenty to keep you interested however. Some of the city’s best theatres are around here, as is the Dublin Writers Museum and Croke Park, the home of Gaelic football. Students of Irish history will also want to see the bullet-scarred General Post Office building where republican leader Patrick Pearse read the Proclamation of the Republic, one of the most seismic events on the road to independence from Britain.
Back over on the south side of the river is the notorious Temple Bar area. Once one of the city’s most fascinating and culturally rich quarters, it is now more famous as a favoured destination for stag and hen parties from the UK. Fun if you are a big fan of stick-on devil horns and death-defying feats of alcoholic consumption, kind of wearing if you are not. Visit during the day, however, and it is an entirely different beast - the narrow cobbled streets home to a number of quirky shops and galleries.
Most Dubliners avoid it like the plague on evenings which is even more of a reason to avoid getting sucked into the litany of Brit-dominated debauchery.
For, as anyone who has ever supped a few while thrilling to the strains of a local folk band or been swept away by the youthful energy of the city’s litany of classy clubs will attest to: it is the atmosphere fostered by its inhabitants that nudges Dublin up the scale from merely good to unimpeachably special.
The River Liffey is Dublin's Heartbeat
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Temple Bar is Famous For Its Pubs
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